Jackson Marvell

HEBER, UTAH

“One of my earliest memories of wanting to be a climber was on family vacations to  Zion National Park. I remember looking up and seeing the climbers on the walls and their portaledges and just knowing that one day I would want to do that.”  

That day became reality for Jackson after he convinced a coworker to take him on his first multi-pitch climb. This initial foray rapidly turned into an obsession. He acquired his own gear and began honing his skills on the sandstone towers of his home state, laying the foundation for an impressive career. Marvell’s early dedication translated into over 100 desert tower ascents all before his 21st birthday. This foundational experience in traditional and big wall climbing in Utah's unique landscapes provided him with a versatile skill set.

“I just wanted to be able to do all the mediums and go anywhere I wanted with it—so I tried every aspect of climbing from ice to traditional to mixed.”

Known for his "light and fast" approach, Marvell has made significant contributions to modern alpine climbing. He has established numerous first ascents and new routes across the globe, including notable expeditions in Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan, Peru and Alaska. His innovative style and relentless pursuit of unclimbed lines has brought him to places previously unreached by alpinists before him.

“I go on a big climbing expedition and if I'm doing it well, then I come home with more energy than I left. And that energy goes into my life at home, and then I create more energy and that goes back into climbing. It's a circular process.”

Perhaps Marvell's most heralded achievement to date came in October 2023, when he, alongside Matt Cornell and Alan Rousseau, completed an alpine-style ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7,710m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The ascent took the group three attempts to reach the summit. This ascent, named "Round Trip Ticket," is hailed by many as one of the most impressive alpine climbs in recent history. Despite his extraordinary accomplishments, Jackson remains humble and easy-going, focusing on the intrinsic beauty of the mountains and the camaraderie of his climbing partners.

Career Highlights
● First Ascent and Piolets d’Or Round Trip Ticket, (AI5+ M7 A0, 2,700m) in alpine
style, North face of Jannu (7,710m) (2023)
● First Ascent, “Aim for the Bushes” (AI6 M6 X, 5,250ft), East Face Mt Dickey
(2023)
● First sub-24 hour Ascent, “Slovak Direct” (AI6 M7, 9,000ft), Denali in 21hrs
30min (2022)
● First Ascents, “Techno Terror” (AI6 M7+ A0, 3,600ft) and “Smoke ‘em if You Got
‘em” (AI5+ A2+, 3,600ft), Pyramid Peak, Alaska (2022)
● Infinite Spur (AI5+,M6, 2 865 m), Mt Foraker, Alaska CTC 65 hours (2021)
● First Ascent, Ruth Gorge Grinder, Mt Dickey Alaska (2019)
● First ascent, Sherpi Kangri II (7,100m) Pakistan (2019)
● First Free Ascent, Hell Bitch (5.13) Angel Arch Tower
● Climbed over 178 desert towers, 100 before age 21