Not only does David Göttler set new routes up the highest mountains in the world, he does so unaided and without the support of supplementary oxygen. While the style represents the purist form of alpinism, it’s also viewed as the most dangerous. In 2018, he and Hervé Barmasse attempted a first ascent of the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum IV, an almost 8,000-meter peak known for its technical difficulty, sheer rock faces, objective dangers and unstable weather. For David, there’s no option but the genuine approach—facing mountains and the elements how nature intended is the only path he takes.
An IFMGA mountain guide based in Northern Spain and Chamonix, France, David has more than 30 expeditions on his resume, but his favorite destination remains the Himalaya. In 2003, he set off on his first 8,000-meter expedition to Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world between Nepal and India, and one of the hardest 8,000-meter peaks. Relentless winds prevented the team from succeeding but the mountain and its immense face of ice, snow and rock remain fixed in David’s mind and a looming goal in years to come. In 2014 and 2015, avalanches and earthquakes hampered his attempts to summit Everest, but he’s climbed five of the 14 8000-meter peaks (Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu) and has climbed to 8,200 meters on K2. He’s also accomplished winter ascents of the north faces of the Eiger, the Grand Jorasses and the Matterhorn.
In 2017, he and Italian climber Hervé Barmasse climbed the southwest face of Tibet’s Shishapangma in just 13 hours, a year after he attempted the peak with the late Ueli Steck. In short, David completed a 2,200-meter sprint in pure alpine style. Göttler says the feat was an exercise in seeing he’s capable of. Knowing that he can climb a 2,000-meter face up an 8,000-meter peak in one day opens up more possibilities, dreams and future goals.
Accomplishments:
- Shishapangma (8024m) South Face in under 13 hours
- 8000-meter summits: Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu
- Winter ascents: Eiger, Grand Jorasses and Matterhorn