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Matt Cornell

For over a decade Matt has been living on the road solely to climb, six of those years have been without a car. He lives seasonally between Yosemite National Park, CA in the summer and Bozeman, MT in the winter, where he rides his bike back and forth with the changing of the seasons. Focusing predominantly on alpine and ice climbing, he spends his winters climbing technical ice around Hyalite Canyon where he is known for making bold solo ascents of the canyon’s hardest climbs such as the “Nutcracker” and “Come and Get it”. These solos have helped Matt prepare for frequent expeditions to Alaska, Patagonia, and the Himalaya.


Notable Accomplishments:

  • First alpine style ascent of the north face of Jannu (7,710 m) via a new route “Round Trip Ticket” (M7 AI5+ A0)
  • Denali’s “Slovak Direct” in 21hrs 30min (VI 5.9X M6+ WI6 A2, 9,000 ft)
  • Double Dickey, two ascents of the 5,000ft east face of Mt. Dickey in a single season. One by a new route “Aim for the Bushes” (AI6 M6 X, 5,250 ft) and the other by the coveted second ascent of “Blood from the Stone” (WI6+ X M7 A1, 5,000 ft)
  • Two new routes on Alaskas Pyramid Peak, “Techno Terror” (AI6 M7+ R A0, 3,600 ft) and “Smoke ‘em if You Got ‘em” (AI5+ A2+, 3,600 ft)
  • First free solo of Hyalite Canyons “Nutcracker” (WI5+ M8)
  • First ascent of Sherpi Kangri II (7,100m)