Conrad Anker

Alpine Climber

La spécialité de Conrad Anker est d’escalader les parois les plus difficiles au monde. Cette quête l’a mené des montagnes de l’Alaska et de l’Antarctique aux gigantesques falaises de Patagonie et de l’île de Baffin en passant par les impressionnants sommets de l’Himalaya.

Les expéditions de Conrad en Antarctique s’étendent sur près de 10 ans, avec des premières ascensions dans trois régions. En 1997, Conrad fait équipe avec Alex Lowe et Jon Krakauer pour grimper le Rakekniven, une paroi de 2 500 pi située dans la région de la Terre de la Reine-Maud. Dans le massif Sentinel, Conrad gravit le mont Vinson en ouvrant trois nouveaux itinéraires. Ses ascensions du Karakoram au Pakistan incluent le versant ouest du Latok II par la voie « Tsering Mosong », une voie qui débute à la même altitude que le sommet du Denali. Elle comprend 26 longueurs de corde sur une falaise verticale qui culmine à 23 342 pi.

En 1998, Conrad et Peter Croft établissent en une journée la première ascension du Spansar Peak en passant par une arête de 7 000 pi. En Patagonie, il s’attaque aux trois tours du massif Cerro Torre. Sur El Capitan dans le parc Yosemite, il se joint à Steve Gerberding et à Kevin Thaw pour établir une nouvelle voie escarpée sur la face de droite, la « Continental Drift ». Dans le parc national de Zion, Mugs Stump et Conrad sont les premiers à venir à bout de la très redoutée paroi « Streaked Wall ».

En mai 1999, alors qu’il fait partie de l’expédition de recherche de Mallory et d’Irvine, Conrad découvre le corps de George Mallory, célèbre explorateur de l’Everest dans les années 1920. La disparition de Mallory et de Sandy Irvine lors de leur tentative de la conquête du sommet en juin 1924 demeure l’un des plus grands mystères de l’alpinisme; les analyses effectuées à la suite de cette découverte ont néanmoins permis d’en savoir un peu plus sur les premières expéditions.

Conrad est diplômé de l’Université de l’Utah et vit à Bozeman, dans le Montana, avec sa femme et ses trois fils. Il est membre du conseil d’administration du Conservation Alliance, de l’American Alpine Club et de l’Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation. Pour se maintenir en forme, il pratique l’escalade, la course et le ski.

Conrad Anker to Lead Spring Expedition to Mount Everest

mars 16 2012
Source: Never Stop Exploring
Mountaineer and The North Face athlete Conrad Anker with Everest highlighted by the sun in the distance on the left. (Photo: Cory Richards) Continuing his legacy of renowned ascents, famed mountaineer and The North Face athlete Conrad Anker is aiming once again for the top of the world as he leads a team of climbers setting out to reach the summit of Mount Everest this spring. Steeped with a history unlike any other, Everest has been perhaps the most sought-after summit for climbers in the world. Anker, along with fellow The North Face athlete and National Geographic photographer Cory Richards, will revisit Everest’s storied past as they attempt to repeat the historic climb of the 1963 National Geographic-sponsored American Mount Everest Expedition (AMEE) almost 50 years after the first American ascent to the summit via the West Ridge. Anker and Richards will climb Everest’s West Ridge, a route seldom visited. Their alpine-style climb will be documented by Richards for a feature in National Geographic magazine to be published in early 2013 and covered in real time on the magazine’s May issue iPad app starting April 16. It can also be followed online at the partners’ websites and on Twitter via #oneverest. Anker and Richards’ efforts will be complemented by a second team of climbers from The North Face global athlete team, including Kris Erickson, Hilaree O’Neill, Emily Harrington and Sam Elias. This team will attempt the summit simultaneously on the Southeast Ridge of the mountain. They will focus on mentorship within the climbing and mountaineering communities. Erickson and O’Neill, who have climbed some of the world’s most challenging mountains, will provide insight and education to the younger Elias and Harrington, who have traditionally been focused on rock and ice climbing. The scientific portion of the expedition involves geologists from Montana State University on the Southeast Ridge team and medical specialists from Mayo Clinic at Base Camp.  On the Southeast Ridge team will be Montana State University professor and structural geologist, Dr. David Lageson. He will focus on research and education in partnership with Philip Henderson of the National Outdoor Leadership School and Travis Corthouts, a geology graduate student who will conduct research from Everest Base Camp. Also part of the Southeast Ridge team will be National Geographic writer Mark Jenkins. Some members of this team will contribute to an online science curriculum developed for fifth graders by Montana State University. “The West Ridge of Everest is a demanding and challenging route. Sharing the science of Mount Everest is a goal of our team, and combining our two objectives in one expedition is a fitting tribute to the 1963 AMEE team,” Anker said. “Everest remains a beacon of exploration. The ability to share the experience of Mount Everest with school children while conducting science is the foundation of our expedition.” Continuing the scientific theme, at Base Camp a team of five Mayo Clinic researchers will study climbers from both teams, recording real-time data for a comprehensive look at the impacts of high altitude on human physiology. The expedition is sponsored by National Geographic and The North Face, with support from Montana State University. “National Geographic is thrilled to support this exciting project, which takes a historic achievement we funded — the 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition — and uses it to frame a modern-day attempt at the summit. New technology allows us to do something that was impossible in 1963 — bring National Geographic magazine readers along in real time, with video, photographs and blogs from the expedition in the magazine’s May issue app for iPad,” said Rebecca Martin, director of National Geographic’s Expeditions Council. “Supporting this expedition is particularly meaningful to us because Conrad and the teams seek to not only replicate what has to date been a singular achievement but also to expand scientific understanding of Everest and instill a deeper appreciation of the Himalayas through educational outreach.” “At The North Face, we are excited to work in partnership with National Geographic on this momentous expedition. We are proud to see our athletes Conrad, Cory, Kris, Hilaree, Sam, and Emily embarking on a journey that truly exhibits the evolution of high-altitude mountaineering and honors its rich past,” said Todd Spaletto, The North Face president. "We see this expedition as a tremendous step inspiring outdoor exploration in communities around the world.” Mountaineer Conrad Anker (left) with teammate and National Geographic photographer Cory Richards join forces to climb the West Ridge of Mount Everest in the spring of 2012. (Karine Aigner/National Geographic)