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Simone Moro

Simone Moro
Simone Moro
Simone Moro

Bio

Since Simone Moro began his climbing career 20 years ago in the Italian Alps, his passion for exploration and new challenges has taken him to some of the remotest places on the face of our planet: from Patagonia to Russia, the Alps to the Himalayas.

Simone’s climbing days began in 1980, with the Italian Dolomites as his playground. In the years that followed, he successfully climbed many routes up to 8a (5.13a) and 8b+ (5.14a). He stills climbs on extreme difficulties both on rock (8 a/b) and mixed climbs (M9). In October 1992, he took part in an expedition to Everest, his first outside of Europe. He concluded this first expedition at 7400mt, without a successful summit bid. This, however, was but the beginning of his international travels. Simone’s dream remains that of the Everest-Lhotse crossing via the south peak that bridges these two mountains. His latest attempt in Spring 2001 ended in the successful rescue effort of a young British climber on Lhotse. For this demonstration of true climbing spirit, Simone was conferred the David A. Sowles Memorial Award by the American Alpine Club in February 2002. In January 2003, he also received the Gold Medal for Civic Value from Italian president Carlo Azeglio Ciampi for his “noble example of civic virtues and exemplary spirit of solidarity” for this successful rescue effort, as well as the “Pierre de Coubertin International Fair Play Trophy” in Paris.

On Friday January 14th 2005 Simone Moro, together with Polish climber Piotr Morawski, reached the main summit of Shisha Pangma at 8027 metres. This is the first winter ascent of the 14th highest mountain in the world, and the eighth 8000m mountain to be climbed in the winter season. This is also the first time an Italian mountaineer succeeds on a first winter ascent of a 8000m peak.

He recently published his first book, “Cometa Sull’Annapurna” (Corbaccio Editors), which narrates the true story of the fateful winter expedition to Annapurna in 1997 in which his climbing companion Anatolij Bukreev lost his life while Simone himself only just miraculously survived.

Birthdate:

10/27/1967

Nickname:

Dindo

Favorite Destination:

Any expeditions in winter or wild Reunion.

Favorite The North Face Product:

Assoult 23 and Himalayan suit.

Proudest Moment:

Standing on the top of Shisha Pangra in the winter of 2005. Also, seeing my daughter born.

Words To Live By:

Humility and happiness!

Favorite Moment In History:

The Reinhold Nessner first solo Everest Climb without oxygen in 1980.

Most Recent Epic:

First solo traverse of Everest (South/North).

Most Humbling Moment:

Tragedy on Annapurna in 1997.

Three Things People Should Know About Me

I'm always happy, and I speak five different languages.

Three Things I Always Pack:

Running shoes, head lamp, and MP3 music.

Web Site:

www.simonemoro.com

Career Highlights:

  • Winter climb of main summit of Shisha Pangma (8027m), together with Polish climber Piotr Morawski. January 2005
  • Climbed Mount Elbrus (5642m), Caucaso, in 3 hours 40 minutes, on September 25th 2004
  • Climbed Broad Peak (8047m), Karakorum, in 29 hours, on July 15th 2004
  • Nanga Parbat, a new 2100m route opened, on June 22nd 2004
  • Summit of Khali Himal (7066m) otherwise known as Baruntse North. This is the first ascent of the 2500m high North Face of Baruntse, where the final 1350m were climbed alpine style. This new line, named “Ciao Patrick”, is dedicated to the memory of mountaineer Patrick Berhault, on May 4th 2004
  • Summit of Everest 3 times (8850m), the highest mountain in the world, ascended from the North (Tibet) side on Friday May 24th 2002. Simone ascended in 2006 from the south side and descended in Tibet completing the traverse of the mountain. From the summit to the base of the mountain in only 4 hours 30 minutes
  • Summit of Cho Oyu (8201m), the sixth highest mountain in the world in only 11 hours of climbing, on Thursday May 9th 2002
  • Marble Wall (6400m), winter ascent
  • Everest (8850m)
  • Climbed in 37 days only Pik Lenin (7134), Pik Kommunism (7495), Pik Korjenevskoy (7105) , Pik Khan Tengri (7010).
  • Lhotse (8516m), for the second time
  • Fitz Roy (3441m) speed ascent of “Supercanalate”. Go and back in 24 hours
  • Shisha Pangma (8008m) and descent with ski from 7200 m
  • Speed ascent of Lhotse (8516m) in only 17 hours, 1994
  • Winter speed ascent of Aconcagua 6962 and Cerro Mirador 6047 m

Awards:

  • Pierre de Coubertin International Fair Play Trophy, Paris, January 2003
  • Gold Medal for Civic Value, Italy, January 2003
  • David A. Sowles memorial Award, by the American Alpine Club, February 2002
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