Allfrey, Honnold Become Fastest to Wrestle Alligator Route

Nov 21st 2013

On November 9, twenty-eight-year-olds Dave Allfrey and Alex Honnold climbed El Cap's Excalibur (VI 5.10 A3+) in 16 hours, 10 minutes, marking the route's fastest ascent and first in under 24 hours. Read more

The North Face ThermoBall Jacket - Climbing Magazine Review

Sep 19th 2013


The four testers who got their hands on the ThermoBall immediately thought it was stuffed with down : "This has changed the way I think about synthetics" Read more

Unearthed :: Renan Ozturk

Sep 19th 2013


The sand was everywhere. Red, silty and windblown into every crevice of everything. But as gritty as it felt against our dry dusted skin, we were psyched to be there. Matt, Alex and myself have spent many years cutting our teeth climbing parallel cracked cliffs and towers surrounding the Canyonlands of Utah. Read more

Unearthed :: Matt Segal Update

Sep 19th 2013


Don’t get me wrong, I love Indian Creek. I’ve been going there for a lot of years. I love the climbing, the people - the place. But, as is the case with so many classic destinations, it’s gotten comfortable for me. Maybe too comfortable. Read more

Introducing FlashDry™ Technology

Sep 6th 2012


FlashDry™ technology is the new standard in sweat removal and temperature regulation. Products for climbing, hiking, running, and snowsports have incorporated FlashDry™ technology to improve moisture management and temperature regulation during outdoor activity. Read more

The Go-to Piece: Alpine Project Soft Shell Jacket

Mar 16th 2012


The Alpine Project Soft Shell Jacket – from the best-in-class Summit Series® – delivers a full suite of alpine-oriented technical features, including 100% windproof GORE WINDSTOPPER® fabrication plus snow- and rain-resistance. Read more

Sub 1-lb: Alpine Project GORE-TEX® Active Shell Jacket

Mar 14th 2012


When weight is critical, reach for the Alpine Project GORE-TEX® Active Shell Jacket. Part of the no-compromise Summit Series®, this ultra-lightweight hard shell is waterproof and windproof with maximum breathability and next-to-skin comfort. Read more

Six Ascents Nominated For 20th Piolets d'Or

Feb 14th 2012

For the twentieth edition of the Piolets d'Or, it took a month of reflection and debate for the jury, presided over by Alpinist Editor-in-Chief Michael Kennedy, to select the six routes that they have decided best illustrate exploratory alpinism Read more

Avoiding Creepy Crawlies on Tioman Island

Dec 6th 2011

On a climbing trip that was partially planned on Facebook, Luis "Lucho" Rivera and Cedar Wright put up two new routes on the Dragon's Horns on Malaysia's Tioman Island: Tanoshi Buttress Read more

America's Hardest Mixed Climbing Area?

Dec 5th 2011

“It makes the Poser's Lounge look like a warm up area.” That was Jason Nelson’s response to a recent question about a new area he and Marc Beverly developed in Ouray, Colorado, called the Hall of Justice.  Read more

Toads Detect Silent But Deadly Pre-Earthquake Gas

Dec 5th 2011

Stories of animal behavior changing in advance of earthquakes dates back centuries, but now scientists have some clues why that might be, at least with amphibians. Days before a big quake in Italy in 2009, the population of a breeding pond of toads went from 96 to zero. Read more

After Meru: Conrad Anker on Mugs Stump, what's next and why he calls Shark's Fin a second ascent

Nov 22nd 2011

“It was an unspoken thing,” says Conrad Anker, “that I would finish what he started.” Anker is speaking of his early mentor and housemate Mugs Stump, who died in a crevasse fall on Denali in May 1992... Read more

Urubko and Durov Awarded Piolet d'Or Asia

Nov 12th 2011

On November 4, 2011, in Seoul, Korea, Denis Urubko and his partner Gennady Durov won the Piolets d'Or Asia for their route Dollar Rod (6b) on Pik Pobeda (7439m), which they established in August. This is Urubko's third Piolet d'Or Asia; Read more

Father-Son Team Establish New Route on Monte Rosa Massif

Nov 5th 2011

On September 30, 2011, Italian climbers Marco and Herve Barmasse, a father and son from Northern Italy, established a new route on the southeast face of Signalkuppe (4554m), a peak in the Monte Rosa massif. Read more

Honnold Free Solos Cosmic Debris and Heaven

Sep 26th 2011

On September 22, Alex Honnold kicked off his day by free soloing Cosmic Debris (5.13b) for what is thought to be the hardest free solo ever completed in Yosemite Valley. Read more

New Route on Koh-e-Baba-Tangi

Sep 2nd 2011

Sisters Pat Deavoll and Christine Byrch of New Zealand have established a new route on northern Afghanistan's Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6515m), making the second ascent of the mountain since the original 1963 Italian ascent. Read more

Backcountry Magazine Announces Subscriber Grant Winner

Aug 29th 2011

For its efforts addressing climate change Protect Our Winters (POW) is this year's recipient of Backcountry Magazine's first annual Keep The Deep Subscriber Grant. Read more

Urubko Climbs Dollar Rod on Pik Pobeda

Aug 24th 2011

August 15, Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov climbed a new route on the north face of Peak Pobeda (7439m). Their route Dollar Rod (6b) climbs to the right of the 1982 Smirnov route, Dollar Route (6b) and to the left of Verblud Read more

Rain and Rock in Pakistan

Aug 16th 2011

Pat Goodman, Matt McCormick and Will Meinen recently finished a month of weather watching in Pakistan. For the second year in a row McCormick traveled to Pakistan in the hopes of climbing the southwest pillar of K7, and for the second year in a row the weather did not cooperate. Read more

Mount Stuart Activity

Aug 12th 2011

According to Fred Beckey in Cascade Alpine Guide, "Mount Stuart has been pronounced the single greatest mass of exposed granite in the United States and dominates the Central Washington Cascades." Jens Holsten recently added a direct variation to Gorillas in the Mist (5.11) up Stuart Peak. Read more

New Route After Search Attempt

Aug 11th 2011

After spending eight days looking for signs of two Polish climbers who went missing last year, Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko climbed a new route on Prjevalsky (possibly spelled Przewalski) Peak (6240m) in Kyrgyzstan in the Tien Shan mountains of central Asia on July 25. Read more

Developer Proposes City Next To Red Rock Canyon

Aug 9th 2011

In 2003 Nevada's Clark County Commission enacted a zoning ordinance for land near Red Rock Canyon. The new zoning law was mirrored by the state and would have limited the density of development in the area to one house every two acres. Read more

TNB: Kai's First Climb

Jul 26th 2011

<p>Three weeks ago my wife and I visited the City of Rocks, Idaho, and my son Kai completed his first climb: <em>Lookout Ridge</em> (5.5). He’d just turned four, was on his first road trip, camping and rock scrambling and hanging out with his best friend Hen J. Read more

Women’s Lead Qualifers, Arco World Championship, end with DiGiulian in Semis

Jul 20th 2011

The women’s lead qualifying round has just finished, July 20, at the Arco World Championships.  The 26 top competitors are moving on to the semifinals, which will take place on July 22, with finals later the same day. Sasha DiGiulian will be the sole American in women's semifinals. Read more

First Paraclimbing World Championship in Arco

Jul 20th 2011

<p>For the first time, paraclimbers competed in both speed and lead climbing events in their own World Championship, alongside the elite of the sport in Arco, Italy. Read more

TNB: Slander Slabs

Jul 20th 2011

As you read this, Ammon McNeely and Kait Barber have just completed the second ascent of Wings of Steel on El Cap, an early 1980s era line by Mark Smith and Richard Jensen. Read more

World Ch's continue in Arco, which has earned it

Jul 19th 2011

<p>The lead-climbing arm of the 2011 World Championships, held in Arco, Italy, begins tomorrow, to be streamed live. Women's qualifications are Wednesday, men's on Thursday, with women's semis and finals on Friday and men's to follow on Saturday. Read more

One Month Remains for AAC $25,000 Grant

Jul 16th 2011

The American Alpine Club's Cornerstone Conservation Grant funds essential infrastructure at climbing areas. Individuals or communities that see a need for local infrastructure can propose projects that will improve, conserve and protect their climbing resources for years to come. Read more

Mendenhall Towers Free Ascent

Jul 16th 2011

<p> On July 11 Juneau locals Ryan Johnson and Gabe Hayden made the first free ascent of the South Buttress Direct on the Main Tower of the Mendenhall Towers outside Juneau, Alaska. The climb is graded 5.11a, ascends over 2000 feet. </p> Read more

Brits Make Second Ascent in Cordillera Oriental

Jul 15th 2011

<p><span class="initial">E</span>arly last month, British climbers Dan Fitzgerald, James Wake and Matt Balmer climbed a new route on what they identify as Huarancayo Sur (circa 5,200m), a mountain in the Cordillera Oriental range of Peru. Read more

Alpinist Subscriber Grant

Jul 13th 2011

<p><span class="initial">W</span>ith the release of Issue 35, Alpinist Magazine announced the first recipient of the new Alpinist Subscriber Grant. This year the Access Fund's Land Conservation Campaign will receive ten percent of every Alpinist subscription sold--somewhere in the neighborhood of $5,000. </p> Read more

Lake Lure Accident

Jul 12th 2011

Saturday July 2, 2011 a rock climber died at Rumbling Bald near Lake Lure in Western North Carolina. Joshua Earl Haddock, 29, fell thirty to forty feet in an accident while rappelling. Read more

Bean Bowers Passes Away

Jul 12th 2011

<p> <i>News Flash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more information becomes available.--Ed.</i> </p> Read more

Sixth 2011 Denali Fatality

Jul 7th 2011

June 30, the body of Juergen Kanzian, was found at about 15,300 feet in Denali's (20,320') Oriental Express couloir. Kanzian, a 41-year-old mountaineering guide from Koetschach-Mauthen, Austria, had originally planned to ski the West Buttress route. When he failed to return to high camp June 28, NPS rangers were notified and a search began the next morning. Read more

Paraglider Lost in Peru

Jul 7th 2011

Xavier Murillo, 55, from France (a member of the Paragliding World Cup Association and a respected pilot) has been reported missing since July 1. Xavier has not reported or been seen after he took off with a white paraglider in the area of Caraz, Peru. Read more

New Route on Latok III

Jun 29th 2011

June 25, a team led by Alexander Odintsov climbed a new route on the west face of Latok III (6949m). Odintsov and team members Alexey Lonchinskiy, Ivan Dozhdev and Eugeniy Dmitrenko began this expedition on June 10, establishing nine camps in their fifteen-day climb. Two days after reaching the summit, the team returned to base camp. Read more

French Mountaineering Accident

Jun 29th 2011

June 26, a British hiker discovered the bodies of six mountaineers in the French alps. The identities of the climbers, three men and three women, have not been released yet, but they are thought to be French. Read more

Climber Dead on Makalu

May 26th 2011

Joelle Brupbacher of Switzerland died at Camp 3 (7400m) on Makalu (8481m) in the night of May 22 following a successful summit. A report from explorersweb states that on the morning of May 22, "she became unable to move in camp 3." Read more

Cool Trad Video

May 24th 2011

<p>Solid rock, good gear -- no need for bolts on this one! What a beautiful trad line in Italy.</p> <p> </p> Read more

Everest and Lhotse in 21 Hours

May 19th 2011

<p> On May 14, American guide Michael Horst climbed Everest (8848m) and Lhotse (8516m) in under 21 hours. We believe this establishes him as the first to climb two 8,000-meter peaks in a single day. </p> Read more

Updated: Phil Powers, AAC Exec Director, seriously injured

May 18th 2011

<p><img src="" border="0"></p> <p>We are very sorry to report that Phil Powers was hurt in a long fall Tuesday, May 17, in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado. Powers is a longtime climber and community leader who has served as Executive Director of the American Alpine Club for six years.</p> Read more

Rock and Ice Photo Camp Adds Video

May 17th 2011

<p><em>Rock and Ice</em> has added a video course to its fifth annual Photo Camp, held June 22, 23, 24, in Rifle, Colorado. If you are an aspiring photographer who wants to get ahead of the curve, now is your chance to learn both still photography and video from two of the best in the business, David Clifford and Keith Ladzinski. Read more

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