Alex Johnson

Rock Climber

One of the very few women in the world who consistently climbs V12’s, Alex Johnson has built an impressive resume of first female ascents including Red Rock’s Lethal Design, Clear Blue Skies on Colorado’s Mt. Evans, Hueco Tanks’ Diaphanous Sea, and The Mystery in Bishop, CA. She’s notched golds and silvers in World Cup competitions, is a five-time United States National Champion, and received Climbing Magazine’s Golden Piton Award for Breakaway Success in 2008.

She constantly strives to push her – and other’s – limits. But it isn’t all about competitions and first ascents. Alex is an athlete who is always exploring beyond the boulder, looking for ways to push herself in her community.

Working with PCI (Professional Climbers International), Alex designs and leads a nationwide clinic series for young climbers. “Seeing a young climber struggle with something, helping them, and showing them the techniques to make it possible, and then watching them succeed is one of the greatest things I’ve witnessed. And one of the most important things I’ve done personally with my climbing career.”

In between climbing, teaching, traveling, coaching kids, kayaking, biking, running and competitions – Alex can be found hanging with friends or hitting the open road with her Chihuahua, Fritz, riding shotgun.

Hometown: Hudson, Wisconsin Nickname: AJ Birth date: April 3, 1989 Words to Live By/Personal Mantra: “no act of kindness, no matter how small, is ever wasted” Three Things You Always Pack: Lip Balm, Rain Shell, Super Glue Favorite Training Snack: Snickers Bar Favorite Movie: Pitch Perfect Favorite Book: To Kill A Mockingbird Proudest Sporting Moment: Winning Climbing World Cup Gold Medals in 2008 and 2010 Most Humbling Moment: climbing humbles me every dayFavorite North Face Product(s) and Why: ** Storm Chaser jacket with Polartec. It’s comfortable, soft, extremely warm and doesn’t restrict movement. How I Relax: going to the movie theater Weakness/Guilty Pleasure: Taco Bell Inspiration Within the Sport: The future young climbers Dream Vacation: Thailand Cause(s) You Are Passionate About: Climbers Against Cancer Favorite Training Music or Artist: Blackmill Favorite Destination for Your Sport: Yosemite Favorite Piece of History in Your Sport: Angie Payne breaking the V13 barrier for women Three things people don’t know or would be surprised to know about you? 2007 Wisconsin State Champ Pole Vaulter, terrified of spiders, my adventure companion weighs 4 pounds. Goal(s) This Season: Climb “The Swarm” V13/14

Competition Results

  • Gold Medal 2008 Bouldering World Cup Vail, CO, USA
  • Silver Medal 2009 Bouldering World Cup Vail, CO, USA
  • Gold Medal 2010 Bouldering World Cup Greifensee, SUI
  • Silver Medal 2010 Bouldering World Cup Sheffield, UK
  • Overall 2010 World Cup Ranking 4th
  • Five-Time United States National Champion

Notable Outdoor Achievements

V12/8A+

  • 2008 First woman to climb V12 in Colorado: Clear Blue Skies, Mt. Evans, CO
  • 2009 The Mystery Bishop, CA; first female ascent
  • 2009 A Maze of Death Bishop, CA; second female ascent
  • 2010 Diaphanous Sea Hueco Tanks, TX; first female ascent
  • 2011 Tequila Sunrise Hueco Tanks, TX; second female ascent
  • 2011 The Mandala, Bishop, CA; second female ascent

V11/8A

  • 2008 Sunspot Rocky Mountain National Park, CO
  • 2008 Gypsies, Tramps and Thieves Poudre Canyon, CO; first female ascent
  • 2008 Divergence Sit Poudre Canyon, CO; first female ascent
  • 2009 Double Stack Arthur’s Rock, CO; first female ascent
  • 2011 Beefy Gecko Bishop, CA
  • 2011 Haroun and the Sea of Stories Bishop, CA

Awards * 2008 Recipient of Climbing Magazine’s Golden Piton Award for Breakaway Success: specifically including Gold Medal at Vail Bouldering World Cup and First Female Ascent of a V12 in Colorado: Clear Blue Skies at Mt. Evans