Matt Segal

Rock Climber

The paradox of Matt Segal’s climbing lies within the juxtaposition of its origins and its current trajectory.

With humble beginnings in southern Florida, America’s most impoverished rock setting, Matt began what would become a productive affair with climbing. Working his way through the competitive scene, Matt began to earn a name for himself due to his natural talents on the wall as well as his outspoken nature off it. In a trade-off between his native beaches and the American Rockies, Matt made the move to Boulder, Colorado. There he began the transition from comp killing youth to budding rock talent.

Matt found his true calling in climbing and proceeded to focus his time on pushing the limits of single pitch traditional climbing. In this arena, Matt continues to extend the boundaries, both for him and the sport, finding a balance between the progression of his ethics, spirituality and the sport he loves so much.

Birthdate: May 8, 1984

Nickname: Miami Vice Grip

Words To Live By: “The arrival of chaos should be regarded as extremely good news.” -Chogyam Trungpa Rinpoche

Favorite Climbing Area: Eldorado Canyon in Boulder, Colorado – the place I learned how to traditional climb.

Favorite Destination: Spain

Favorite Snack: Bread & cheese

Favorite Book: The Life of Milarepa

I Get Amped Listening To: Sage Francis & Buck 65

Inspiration Within Sport: Anyone who goes out and pushes themselves is really inspiring to me. Also, the fact that people are constantly raising the bar in terms of difficulty and style.

Most Humbling Moment: Getting worked on the 5.9 off-widths in Yosemite Valley.

Proudest Moment: Establishing the first 5.14 traditional route in Eldorado Canyon: The Iron Monkey 5.14R.

I’ve Always Wanted To: Base Jump

Three Things People Should Know:

  1. I graduated from Naropa University where I studied Buddhism and double majored in Religious Studies and Eastern Psychology.
  2. I was born & raised in Miami, Florida – the flattest state in the US.
  3. I love climbing rocks

Three Things I Always Pack on a Trip: My journal, coffee and a good book.

Cause(s): Access Fund, Paradox Sports, American Alpine Club

Trad

Eldorado Canyon, CO:

  • Iron Monkey 5.14 (1st ascent)
  • Trippin 5.13 (2nd ascent)
  • Free Line 5.13 R
  • Frayed Line 5.13 R
  • Surfs Up 5.13R

Rocky Mountain National Park, CO: * The End of the Beginning 5.13 (1st ascent)

Boulder Canyon, CO: * Deadline 5.14- (2nd all gear ascent)

Indian Creek:

  • Death of a Cowboy 5.13-
  • Less then Zero 5.13-
  • Ruby’s Café 5.13- (flash)

Vedavoo, WY: * Triple X 5.13 R/X (2nd ascent)

Squamish BC: * Chief Link-Up: Black Dyke 5.13, Free Grand 5.13 and The Shadow 5.13 in a day with Sonnie Trotter, over 20 pitches total.

Yosemite, CA: * The Free Rider Grade IV 5.12+ (33 Pitches) El Capitan

Bouldering

The Grampians:

  • Forced Entry V12
  • Lost For Life V12
  • Dead Can’t Dance V11

Rocky Mountain National Park:

  • Eternia V12
  • Sun Spot V11
  • Bush Pilot V11
  • Barbed Wired Beard V11

Poudre Canyon: * V12

Top Competitions

2005

  • Mammut ABS National, Boulder, CO - 3rd place
  • Adult National Team Member: Bouldering

2004

  • Mammut ABS Nationals, Boulder, CO – 1st place
  • USA Climbing Difficulty National, Miami, FL - 4th place
  • Adult National Team Member: Bouldering & Difficulty

2003

  • Southern Showdown IV, USCCA Bouldering National, Miami, FL – 1st place
  • USCCA Bouldering National, Boulder, CO - 2nd place
  • USCCA Difficulty National, Pawtucket, RI - 2nd place
  • Adult National Team Member: Bouldering & Difficulty
  • USCCA Bouldering Champion