Simone Moro

Alpine Climber

Simone has a passion to explore, a passion which has led him from his home and playground in the Italian Dolomites to the very highest places on our earth. He is world renowned for his all around prowess as an alpinist - on rock, on ice, mixed and at altitude.

In February 2009 he made the first winter ascent of Makalu (8463m) with his teammate Denis Urubko in true alpine style - fast and light, without oxygen or high altitude Sherpa. Their achievement touched the limits of human endurance and ushered in a new era by their success on one of the remaining high-altitude challenges. Simone is a veteran of 10 winter expeditions, including in two attempts on Broad Peak (8051m) in the winters of 2007 and 2008. Reaching the summit of Shish Pangma (8027m), together with his Polish teammate Piotr Morawski, he made the first winter ascent of the 14th highest mountain in the world.

Since his first expedition Simone has be drawn back time again to Everest. In 2006 he made the first solo traverse south/north. One of his remaining dreams is to return to make the Everest-Lhotse traverse via the south peak bridging the two mountains. His first attempt in spring 2001 was curtailed with the successful rescue of a young British climber on Lhotse. This ‘exemplary spirit of solidarity’, which underpins Simone’s philosophy in every sphere of his life, was rewarded by numerous awards including the Fair Play award from UNESCO.

Simone has two published books. ‘Cometa Sull’Annapurna’ narrates the story of his 1997 winter expedition to Annapurna during which his companion Anatoli Bukreev died. In ‘8000m to Live For’ Simone describes all the routes on the fourteen 8000m mountains.