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Abby Watkins

Abby Watkins
© 2003 Abby Watkins
© 2003 Abby Watkins

Athlete to Athlete Interview:

Mark Synnott with Abby Watkins

Bio

Since she began climbing in 1988, Abby has excelled at just about every kind of climbing imaginable. In 1996, she and fellow Australian Vera Wong set the Women’s Speed Records on The Nose of El Cap and the Regular Northwest Face on Half Dome, a record which stood for eight years. She also has a mile-long list of competitive titles she’s taken home over the years: second place at the 2004 Ouray Ice Festival, third place at the 2002 Ice Climbing World Championships and first place at Festiglace du Quebec in 2001, just to name a few. In 1998, Abby took her skills to the mountains of Pakistan and promptly completed two first ascents in the Nangmah Valley. In the spring of 2005, she reached the summit of Cholatse in Nepal as part The North Face’s Sight to Summit expedition, which helped raise awareness for the Himalayan Cataract Project.

For all her achievements, however, she remains fully grounded: “The most important thing for me has not been the end results . . . I am far more interested in the relationships I have created through climbing, and also the humility with which climbing has helped me approach the world.” Abby shares her talent and experiences through her Alala Women’s Mountain Adventures clinics (www.womensmountainadventures.com) and her job as a mountain guide; she’s a certified Alpine Guide with the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides. Off the mountain, Abby performs with the Vancouver-based aerial dance company, Ariosa Dance.

Favorite Book:

The Hero’s Walk, by Anita Rau Badami

Home:

Golden, British Columbia, Canada

Favorite Music:

Thievery Corporation, Verdi’s La Traviatta, Ani Di Franco, Spearhead – “Variety is the spice of life!”

Career Highlights:

  • Cholatse summit, 21,200 feet, Nepal, 2005
  • Ouray Ice Festival, 2nd Place, 2004
  • Women's Ski Traverse, Bugaboos-Roger's Pass, 2004
  • Ice Climbing World Championships, 3rd Place, 2002
  • Ice Climbing World Cup, 5th Overall, 2nd Place Quebec, 2002
  • Festiglace du Quebec, 1st Place, 2001
  • X Games, 2nd Place and 4th Place Speed, 1997-1998
  • First ascent of Changi Tower, Karakoram Pakistan 5,800 meters, first ascent and all-female expedition of the 1,000-meter Changi Tower, 1998
  • Survival of the Fittest, 2nd Place, 1997
  • Women's Speed Record for The Nose of El Capitan Yosemite, with fellow Australian Vera Wong (1996-2003)
  • Women's Speed Record for The Regular Route, Half Dome Yosemite, also with Vera Wong
  • U.S. Speed Champion 1st in four U.S. Nationals, 1996
  • Escalade Mountain Festival, Blue Mountains Australia, 1st Place Speed, 2nd Place Difficulty, 1997
  • Australian Extreme Games, 1st Place Speed, 3rd Place Difficulty, 1998
  • Australian National Gymnastics Team, 1984-88; full athletic scholarship to U.C. Berkeley in 1988
  • Aerial dance performances in U.S., Canada, and Australia

Film/Media Highlights:

  • Rush HD film on Himalayan Cataract Project
  • Rock and Ice magazine, August 2005: profiled for women's mixed climbing article
  • Outpost magazine: profile
  • Black and White Productions/TNF: "Beyond Gravity"
  • TGRS Productions "Climb On" Series
  • TSN/TNF: "No Limits" Series
  • Today Show, Australia Ice Climbing Segment.
  • Climbing Magazine No. 187 "Excess Baggage" by Abby Watkins
  • Gorp.com "Spanning the Gender Gap - Women in Climbing" by Abby Watkins
  • Rock Magazine Issue No. 35 Abby Watkins Profile.
  • Passionfruit Women's Travel Journal "Bumpy Roads and Lost Temples" A journey into Cambodia by Abby Watkins
  • Gripped magazine (Canada), Vol. 6, Issue 1, Feb./Mar. 2004: “Abby Watkins -- All Rounder” profile
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